Trip Log - Gwaii Haanas - May 2000
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28th - Day 2
Bill Reid, Peregrines and Hot Springs Island
The morning began late for many of us after land night's antics on Limestone Island. WE headed towards a small
neighbouring island in the hopes of catching a glimpse of a pair of Peale's peregrine falcons that have nested there
along the cliffs in recent years. While it took us three 'drive bys', we did succeed in spotting one of the adults sitting
up in a small rock cavity on a ledge.
From there, we moved over to the site of Tanu, an abandoned Haida village set amid giant spruce and situated in an
inlet much the same as Cumshewa was. The site was actually fairly similar to Cumshewa's though much larger with
more examples of long house ruins. It was a photographer's paradise, with lush green grass hiding sunken beams and
frontal poles from the long houses.
Tanu is the burial ground of Bill Reid, the most famous and celebrated Haida carver and the artist behind the
spectacular works of Haida art in the newest terminal at the Vancouver International Airport and the Canadian Embassy in Washington, DC. His grandfather grew up in Tanu, and Bill Reid's grave site now rests on a prominent point at one end of the village, overlooking a peaceful combination of rock, beach and forest in a neighbouring cove.
Tanu was also the site of our second major wildlife sighting of the day! When we pulled into the bay to anchor, guests
spotted an otter swimming towards shore with a rockfish in tow. The Charlottes used to be famous for its sea otters,
but they were trapped and extirpated from the islands one hundred years ago. Today, the river otter like the one we
was are the only mustelids (weasel family) left on the Charlottes other than ermine and pine marten.
The hot springs were exactly as advertised: hot, scenic and more or less all natural. If you can picture yourself sitting
in a small very warm pond in a lush coastal setting overlooking a seascape framed by snow capped mountain peaks,
then Hot Springs Island is likely a place you would enjoy. Our guests spent more than three hours in total wandering the
island and its beaches and of course, soaking in its natural hot springs. We also got the opportunity to chat with the
four Watchmen: a young Haida woman from Prince Rupert, a young man from Terrace (also on the mainland of British
Columbia), a man from Queen Charlotte City and an elder, a woman from Skidegate. The Watchmen program always
tries to place the Haida young people in the company of an elder at these sites so that the young people can learn
from the elders and pass on their knowledge to future Haida generations.
The night ended with us anchoring next to Hot Springs Island in a beautiful sheltered cove.
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